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02 January 2025 | Author: Hanna Vasileuskaya

Huangshan Maofeng and the Legend of the White Lily

Huangshan Maofeng and the Legend of the White Lily

Huangshan Maofeng (Chinese: 黄山毛峰, pinyin Huángshān máo fēng) (Maofeng tea from the Huangshan mountains) — a famous Chinese green tea, one of the ten most renowned teas in China. It grows around Mount Huangshan (Huizhou) in Anhui province, which is why it is also called Huizhou tea.

Every year, from Qingming to Guyu (清明 (Qingming): April 5, “Clear and Bright”; 谷雨 (Guyu): April 20, “Grain Rain”), the first opened, plump and juicy buds of high-quality tea bushes of the “Huangshanzhong” and “Huangshandayezhong” varieties are picked and then pan-fired by hand. The finished tea has a slightly curled shape resembling a bird's tongue, a greenish-yellow color, is covered with silvery down and has golden leaves (the so-called “golden flakes”). When brewed, thick steam forms in the cup, the infusion is a clear greenish-yellow, the tea leaves are yellowish-green and full of life, the taste is soft and sweet, the aroma recalls lily of the valley, and the aftertaste is long and pleasant. Because freshly made tea is covered with white down, the tips of the buds are sharp as peaks, and the fresh leaves are picked on the high peaks of Mount Huangshan, this tea was named Huangshan Maofeng.

Huangshan Maofeng tea

Key moments in the history of the tea:

  • Ancient roots: Although the exact date when Huangshan Maofeng appeared is unknown, mentions of tea from Mount Huangshan are found in ancient Chinese texts dating back to the 11th century. In them this tea was often called “Damp Mist of the Yellow Mountain”.
  • The modern name: The tea received its current name in the late 19th century, during the reign of the Guangxu Emperor. It was then that the tea merchant Xie Zhengan of the Xie Yuda tea company popularized this variety, giving it a more resonant and memorable name.
  • Why Maofeng? The word “Maofeng” translates as “downy peaks”. The tea got this name thanks to the characteristic silvery down covering the young leaves and buds.
  • Birthplace: The Huangshan mountains are not just the place where the tea grows, but an inseparable part of it. The unique climate, soil and environment give the tea its inimitable taste and aroma.
  • High esteem: Maofeng tea quickly won popularity both in China and abroad. It was valued for its delicate aroma, refreshing taste and fine qualities.

Huangshan Maofeng is picked in spring, and both picking and processing are done by hand, which preserves the character of the tea leaf. The tea has a fresh, sweetish taste with light fruity notes. The aroma is delicate, with floral shades. Like many green teas, Huangshan Maofeng is rich in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. Like many famous Chinese teas, Huangshan Maofeng also has an interesting legend connected with it.

The legend of the white lily

During the reign of the Tianqi Emperor of the Ming dynasty, the new magistrate of Yinxian county, Xiong Kaiyuan, set out with his servant on a journey through the Huangshan mountains and got lost. An old monk in a local temple gave them shelter. When the monk offered his guests tea, the magistrate looked at the tea leaves with interest: they were slightly yellowish, shaped like bird tongues and covered with white down. After brewing the tea, they saw the steam rise above the cup, first make a circle along the rim of the cup, then climb to a height of about a foot, forming a white lily. The lily slowly rose upward, turning into a cloud, which then dispersed into many thin streams of steam, filling the room with a delicate aroma.

Having learned that this tea was called Huangshan Maofeng, the magistrate asked the monk for some tea and mountain water. Returning to the county, the magistrate showed this wonder of tea drinking to his old friend, the magistrate of Taiping county. He was so amazed that he decided to present the tea to the emperor, hoping for a reward. However, at the palace the tea session did not produce the expected effect, and the emperor became angry. The Taiping magistrate confessed that the tea had come from the magistrate Xiong Kaiyuan. The emperor ordered Xiong Kaiyuan to be brought to the palace. He explained that for the white lily to appear, the tea must be brewed with mountain water. Having received permission to return to Huangshan, the magistrate brought water from a mountain spring. At the palace the tea session was a success, and the emperor, delighted by what he saw, appointed Xiong Kaiyuan governor of Jiangnan province. However, Xiong Kaiyuan, reflecting that even such a noble drink as Huangshan Maofeng needs special conditions to reveal its qualities, decided to leave worldly life and became a monk at the Yungu Temple at the foot of Huangshan. It is said that the grave of this monk, who took the name Zhengzhi, is located not far from the temple.

Key points of the tea legend

The legend of the Chinese tea Huangshan Maofeng and the Tianqi Emperor is a beautiful example of how history and myth intertwine, creating a fascinating and romantic tale about the origin of one of the best-known Chinese teas.

Mountains at sunset

  • Link to the emperor: Connecting the tea's story with a Chinese emperor gives it special status and prestige. It underlines its high quality and makes it a desirable drink for the nobility.
  • Poetic quality: The image of a white lily appearing above the tea adds poetry and mystique to the legend.
  • Promoting the tea: The legend helps popularize Huangshan Maofeng, making it recognizable and appealing to a wide audience.
  • Creating cultural heritage: This legend has become part of China's cultural heritage and is passed down from generation to generation. 

Many historians consider this legend of showing the emperor a white lily while brewing Huangshan Maofeng to be a beautiful tale rather than historical fact. Although the effect of thick greenish-yellow steam when brewing this tea really does occur. Who knows, perhaps to get the full effect of the white lily, you need that very spring mountain water from the foot of  Huangshan.

There is a deeply practical meaning hidden in the legend of Huangshan Maofeng: even the best tea is only a semi-finished product until you find the right water for it. The story of the imperial palace is not magic but pure chemistry. Hard water kills the delicate aroma, makes the taste flat, and the “white lily” does not appear. Soft spring water, on the contrary, gently extracts essential oils and polyphenols, creating that very thick steam and a layered, sweetish taste. So when you choose Huangshan Maofeng, remember: you are buying not only leaves, but also a commitment to find worthy water for them.

Hanna Vasileuskaya, editor of the Tea24 online shop blog

One way or another, the legend of Huangshan Maofeng and the Tianqi Emperor serves several important functions: it unites history and myth, creates an emotional connection between the tea and the person drinking it, and creates a unique image for the product. Thanks to the legend, the tea gains its inimitable charm and becomes more attractive. The legend also helps develop tea culture, enriches China's tea culture and makes it more interesting.

The legend of the white lily and Huangshan Maofeng tea is a beautiful example of how history and myth can interact to create fascinating and memorable stories. Although the historical accuracy of some details may be doubtful, this legend certainly plays an important role in popularizing this Chinese tea and preserving its cultural heritage.

Frequently asked questions about green tea

How do I choose Chinese green tea?

Choosing Chinese green tea depends on your preferences in aroma and taste. Pay attention to the variety: popular ones include Longjing, Bi Luo Chun and Gong Mei, each with its own distinctive flavor. It is important to consider the quality of the leaves: they should be whole and bright green. Also check the aroma of the tea — it should be fresh and rich. Give preference to teas picked in season, as they keep more of their character.

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